1&2 Introduction
Educational Objectives
3 The Boat
Terminology
Boat Types
Measuring Length
Hull designs
Types of hulls
Propulsion
Carbon Monoxide
Capacity Plate
Engine Systems
Checklist
Review Quiz - 3
4 Legal Requirements
Who May Operate
Registration and Numbering
Hull ID Number
Required Equipment
Personal Flotation Devices
Navigation Lights
Fire Extinguishers
Ventilation
Backfire Flame Arrestor
Sound Producing Device
Visual Distress Signals
Pollution Regulations
MSDs
No Discharge Zones
Aquatic Nuisance Species
Recommended Equipment
Review Quiz- 4
5 Preparation
Vessel Check List
Trailering
Environmental Conditions
Leeway
Tide and Current
Local Hazards
Float Plan
Preventive Maintenance
Fueling
Review Quiz-5
6 Operations
Operator responsibility
Homeland Security
BUI
Navigation Rules
Definitions
Proper Lookout
Seamanship
Sound Signals
Rules of the Road
Meeting & Crossing
Commercial Vessels
Restricted Visibility
Aids to Navigation
Review Quiz-6
7 Getting Underway
Line Handling
Docking/Undocking
Maneuvering Underway
Anchoring
Water Sports
Hunting and Fishing
Swimming
Diving and Snorkling
Paddle Sports
Skiing and Towing
Personal Watercraft
Review Quiz-7
8 Accidents
Fatal Vs Non-fatal
Accident Reports
Crew Overboard
Assistance from Shore
Hypothermia
Fires on Board
First Aid
Rendering Assistance
Running Aground
Review Quiz-8
9 Special Items
Vessel Repairs
Locks
Dams
Security
Sailing
Review Quiz-9
State Requirements
Final Exam

Chapter VII - Getting UnderwaySection 4 - Anchoring

Anchoring

At some point in your boating career you will probably want to anchor. You may want to stop and fish, swim, have lunch or stay overnight. A second reason to drop anchor may be to control the boat if bad weather is blowing you ashore or if your engine has quit and the wind and current are pushing you into shallow water or other boats.

The first step in anchoring is to select the proper anchor. In spite of claims to the contrary there is no single anchor design that is best in all conditions. On most pleasure boats the three anchors you will find most are the fluke or danforth type, the plow and the mushroom anchor.

Mushroom anchors do not have the holding power of a fluke or plow anchor and should only be used on small, lighter weight boats. A local marine supply store can help you select the proper anchor for your boat and for the waters in which you will be boating.

Anchors also must have something to attach them to the boat. This is called the anchor rode and may consist of line, chain or a combination of both. The whole system of gear including anchor, rode, shackles etc. is called ground tackle.

The amount of rode that you have out (scope) when at anchor depends generally on water depth and weather conditions. The deeper the water and the more severe the weather the more rode you will put out. For recreational boaters let it suffice to say that at a minimum you should have out five to eight times (5 to 1 scope for day anchoring and 6 to 8 to 1 for overnight) the depth of the water plus the distance from the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow. For example, if you measure water depth and it shows four feet and it is three feet from the top of the water to your bow cleat you would multiply seven feet by six to eight to get the amount of rode to put out.

STEPS TO SMOOTH ANCHORING

• Select an area that offers maximum shelter from wind, current, boat traffic etc.
• Pick a spot with swinging room in all directions. Should the wind change, your boat will swing bow to the wind or current, whichever is stronger.
• Determine depth and bottom conditions and calculate the amount of rode you will put out.
• If other boats are anchored in the area you select, ask the boat adjacent to the spot you select what scope they have out so that you can anchor in such a manner that you will not bump into the neighboring vessel.
• Anchor with the same method used by nearby boats. If they are anchored bow and stern, you should too. If they are anchored with a single anchor from the bow, do not anchor bow and stern. Never anchor from the stern alone, this could cause the boat to swamp or capsize.
• Rig the anchor and rode. Check shackles to make sure they are secured with wire tied to prevent the screw shaft from opening.
• Lay out the amount of rode you will need on deck in such a manner it will follow the anchor into the water smoothly without tangling.
• Cleat off the anchor line at the point you want it to stop. (Don’t forget or you’ll be diving for your anchor.)
• With the bow to the wind or current in the spot you have selected, stop the boat and slowly start to motor back. Lower the anchor until it lies on the bottom then slowly let out the rode as the boat drifts back. Backing down slowly will assure that the chain will not foul the anchor and prevent it from digging into the bottom.
• When all the anchor line has been let out, back down on the anchor with engine in idle reverse to help set the anchor. (Be careful not to get the anchor line caught in your prop)
• While reversing on a set anchor, keep a hand on the anchor line, a dragging anchor will telegraph itself as it bumps along the bottom. An anchor that is set will not shake the line.
• When the anchor is firmly set look around for reference points in relation to the boat. You can sight over your compass to get the bearing of two different fixed points (house, rock, tower, etc. ) Over the next hour or so, make sure those reference points are in the same place. If not you’re probably dragging anchor.
• Begin anchor watch. Everyone should check occasionally to make sure you’re not drifting.

Click graphic to replay

• Retrieve the anchor by pulling or powering forward slowly until the anchor rode hangs vertically at the bow. Cleat the line as the boat moves slowly past the vertical. This will use the weight of the boat to free the anchor and protect you from being dragged over the bow. Once free, raise the anchor to the waterline. Clean if necessary and let the rode dry before stowing away.
  

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